547> Guanajuato underground: vampire zombees, loculized cryptography + Lazarillo de Tormes

10 Sept 2017> ∫umwhere ov'r northern Mexico, in flite from Dallas to Leon. Speaking on b-½ of meself now, D... easing in th street-urchin ghost-rider dat guest-blog'd last post. Our bedder-½ got back from Switzerland last nite + less than 12 hrs later here we are headid back to Dulles to ketch a flite to Dallas + now to Leon, MX. From dare to Guanajuato. She's got ∫um meating dare + we dig Guanajuato so finger'd weed tag along, we'd say "as usual" bud been a wile since we stowed away in typickle 5cense style. Red Lazarillo del Torme along th ways... in part cuz hits 1 of th mo' fame-us anonymous texts + 2). cuz hits en español (un version en los dos idiomas para que podemos practicar... tho th spanish is rather archaico (scrito en 1500s)) + 3). th libro set th pressadent for th picaresque genre, in wich wiley punk rascals outwit adult oppressors, of which Huck Finn (th inspiration for our recent libro) is th best ∀merikin x-ample of + perhaps th modelo for th rogue street-urchin dat we's adopting to scribe our next. And 4). "de Tormes" means he comes from dat river, litteruley born of el río Tormes como Remus + Romulus. 1 of th funnier books weave red sints A Confederacy of Dunces... only wish hit endid better, just sorta fizzled out th last few chapters. But hit definitly kept us amused+ buen practica + a biting insight into Spanish society in times of inquisition (hence th anonymity).

Lazarillo de Tormes in nuestro cuarto en Guanajuato

11 Sept | Guanajuato> Arrived ayer por la tarde + flâneured around + ate @ Los Campos. Hoy dia our bedder-½ wint to her thang (sustainability meetings w/ th govt of Mexico) + we wint to dar la vuelta. Surrounding Guanajuato are these inviting hills + crags, but no obvious sendheros, so u just half to encounter yo way by trail + error. Last time we was here (1994-95) hicimos mas o menos lo mismo. We dint have no guidebook + era b4 yo time, dear Inturnet, so we just started walkin' up, finding callejons dat wint thru, along roads + bushwhacking 'til we found ourself at th base of th crags. 1995 era durante our climbing dayz, tho we dint have no gear w/ us, only a toothbrush ~$40 in our pocket. But we met sum climbers dat let us climb a few routes con ellos + despues took us out on th town (we havent yet got around to transcribing dat journel entry). Entonces, 20 yrs later, we sorta recordadmos el camino, but figger'd we go a more roundabout route, starting on th southeastern end of el pueblo, past th reservoir (presa de la olla). We try'd to find a trail to no avail, so just follow'd ∫um dusty road tward El Cubo mine + el pueblito de Calderones @ wich pt we veer'd off + followed powerlines on cowtrails + across vast fields + slabs of rock tward th cliffs (once we were up on th ridge, we noticed a path heading up from th southern end of la presa tward th communication towers dat wd of bin a better way up, bway), then aft'r a wile to ∫um sorta road following telephone lines dat despues un rato turnt into a propre hiking sendhero rapping round cerro del la Bufa .. + down past a series of coves 1 w/ ∀ll these statues (Cueva de San Ignacio Loyola) + bajo la montaña, bud rather then share th road con coches on la panoramica we bushwhack'd strait down cross cow pastures + pop'd out rite in town cerca de nuestra hotel. Drop'd off sum bromeliads we pick'd up + got mas hogwah then wint back out following th tunnels bajo Guanajuato... guessing ∫um 30 kms in ∀ll, above + below. La ultima vez que estamos en Guanajuato we was inspired to write a vampire story set in GTO... parece buen lugar por vampiros (zombess tom bien) cuz yous able to travel around subtierranean w/ scarce seeing scant lite of day. Guess GTO used to have flooding problemas, so they bilt these tunnels cum storm drains for th river to go under, but then construyeron un dam + dint need th tunnels so converted them to much-needed caminos to eaze cungestion in el centro, cuz dare be no room for roads, let alone for el pueblo to xpand cuz shes surrounded by mtns on todos lados. They even got these garbage chutes leading down to th tunnels so basureros can retrieve th dumpings underground. Mostly folks go down dare to ketch a bus, sorta como un subway sin trenos si/no coches y autobuses. We flâneured subterranean ∀ll th way to th mummy museum, on th other side of town. Probly cuz of land constraints, GTO's graveyard is vertically stack'd concrete crypts, loculi, como gli italiani lo fanno. And seams they swap 'em out aft'r a certin # of yrs, so they endid up w/ a bunch of unclaimed corpses (menny still clutching pieces of paper attached to them w/ nombres, etc, in case dare familia shd 1 day claim them). And ∫um of these so-called mummys they stuck in a museum + charge folks to gawk + take selfies. Nada on th order of Palermo's catacombs, bud still, morbidly fascinating. De todos modos, we's gunna divide our pics into below ground (this post) + above (la proxima) + not photo bomb chronologickle.

cave @ th base of cero del bufo

cueva San Igancio Loyola (note statue bottom left)

going underground

beneath GTO

Don Quixote graffiti (for sum reason GTO gots a thing for da man of la mancha—numerous statues + murals of him + Sancho + a museum + festival in su nombre)

obviously they dint feel last week's earthquake in GTO

vampiros esperando el bus

alleys shooting off th main artery

subterranean homesick blues

bajando al mummy morgue

say cheese

Helena Bonham Carter?

a fat iggy Pop?

no mames, buey

braids + deflated knockers

clutching his ID papers in sted of his wavos

detail of hand

momificado bebe bruja-ha

birth control

strolling th loculi

sum loculus missing cuerpos

loculized cryptography

Guanajuato by noche

Next wheel show GTO by day...

 546 <( )> 548 >  sobre GTO when i'm rushin' on my run + i guess dat i just dont no

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