|The battlefield of Capulets v. Montagues eating donkey priest stranglers 2 ask the dust||
30 Aug 2021 | Bologna > 8 @ Osteria Bartolini (★★★★½), seafood, we had sum sort of mackerel pesto priest-stranglers (strozzapreti) + our bedder-½ of course had vongole > followed by a mixed fritta > best part about it was the tree we sat @ the base of, a huge plain tree (sycamore) w/ an insane web of branches that served as a canopy for the entire restraunt
31 Aug> morning of Kafkaesque burrocrazy ... w/ all our trips to the Italian embassy in DC thought we were done + it was enough just to have a year-long visa, but now having to jump thru all sorts of other hoops, 1st 2 the police station + then 2 the post office (post offices do far more than just deliver mail in Italy) to fill out all sorts of paperwork to get our permesso di soggiorno, which essentially grants us residency ... still got 3 more meeting 2 get fingerprinted + take sum sort of cultural test so we have 2 take classes in who nose what ...
1 Sept> 8 @ Da Maro (★★★★—Sicilian seafood) then saw Ali: Fear Eats the Soul (★★★★) dubbed in Italian... figured it was good practice since we saw it recently (w/ english subtitles) so knew what was happening + Ali speaks so ridiculously primitive it was ez 2 understand ... classic Fassbinder
3 Sept | Verona> Got a car + drove 2 Verona, Romeo + Juliet's town > the area surrounding Bologna is very productive + agriculture, reminds us of California > met our friends from Naples for lunch then walked around Verona, it's quite touristic, glad Bologna doesn't have this many tourists, not sure what else there is 2 see besides Giulletta's balcon which is a total scam (considering Romeo + Juliet din't exist), but there was tons of people in a Q 2 see it > not that Verona ain't a pretty town, the aqua-blue river Adige especially is quite spectacular (tho not much of the riverfront is developed, u only really see it from the bridges) > @ dusk we had a bottle of prosecco overlooking the river then 8 @ Latteria (★★★), a Pugliese ristorante that was perty good but the maskless owner kept cramming more + more tables closer together + talking 2 other ppl his face inches away > Verona is definitely a lot more right-leaning than Bologna, the locals seem sorta like rich fascist assholes
4 Sept> walked around along the river + up a hill looking back down on Verona, met our friends walked around sum more than had lunch @ Trattoria Al Duomo (★★★★★) in a nice outdoor courtyard space, we had we had bigoli w/ donkey ragu ... yes donkey meat, a 1st > they went 2 the opera but we didn't have tickets + it was sold out > 8 dinner @ Osteria A Le Petarine (★★★★½), had pasta w/ spicey tomato sauce + burrata, but so much for social distancing, person behind us was so close our chairs were touching + they kept scooting further back in2 us
|# 918 <(current)> 920 > The death of a character hiking the Dolomiti above piss lake|